Kenya & Tanzania Safari Guide: Masai Mara, Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Amboseli

How to plan an East Africa safari

East Africa safari planning comes down to three decisions: timing around the Great Migration, how many days in each park, and whether to self-drive or use a guided operator. For a first trip, the minimum useful itinerary is 8 days: 3 nights in the Masai Mara or Serengeti for big cat sightings, 2 nights at Ngorongoro Crater, and 1 to 2 nights at a transition camp. Budget varies enormously: a budget camping safari runs 150 to 250 USD per person per day including park fees, basic accommodation, and a guide-driver; a mid-range lodge safari runs 350 to 600 USD; high-end private conservancy camps run 800 to 1,500 USD per person per night. Park fees alone in Kenya and Tanzania run 60 to 100 USD per person per day — these are non-negotiable and paid at park gates or pre-booked through TANAPA (Tanzania) or KWS (Kenya). The Great Migration — 1.5 million wildebeest and 200,000 zebras moving in a circular route between the Serengeti and Masai Mara — is the main reason most visitors time their trip to East Africa.

Great Migration timing

The migration is year-round and circular, not a single event. Understanding where the herds are determines where to base yourself. January to March: herds are in the southern Serengeti (Tanzania) calving season; massive numbers of newborns and predator activity is very high. April to May: herds move north through the central Serengeti; long rains begin, fewer tourists, lower prices. June to July: herds gather at the Grumeti River for the first river crossing; dramatic but less famous than the Mara crossings. July to October: herds cross north into Kenya's Masai Mara for the famous Mara River crossings; peak season, highest prices. November to December: herds move south again; short rains begin, fewer river crossings visible. If you can only pick one window, late July through September in the Masai Mara gives the highest probability of witnessing a river crossing. January to February in the southern Serengeti near Ndutu gives the calving spectacle, which many wildlife photographers prefer.

Masai Mara: fees, conservancies, and game drives

Masai Mara National Reserve entry is 80 USD per person per day (non-resident rate) payable by card or M-Pesa at the gate. Game drive vehicles are limited to 6 passengers; private vehicles pay 60 USD entry. The reserve itself covers 1,510 square kilometers, but surrounding private conservancies — Olare Motorogi, Mara Naboisho, Ol Kinyei, and others — offer exclusivity and walking safaris not permitted inside the reserve. Conservancy fees run 80 to 150 USD per person per day on top of accommodation costs. Game drives run at dawn (6:00) and late afternoon (16:00) when cats are active; midday drives see little movement. A full day in the reserve costs around 80 USD park fee plus 120 to 200 USD for vehicle hire and driver-guide. Hot air balloon safaris over the Mara run 450 to 550 USD per person and depart at dawn for 1.5 hours over the plains. Book 2 to 3 months ahead in peak season.

Serengeti: zones, entry, and where to stay

Serengeti National Park entry is 70 USD per person per 24 hours (non-resident). Tanzania National Parks (TANAPA) now requires pre-booking and payment through their online portal before arrival — cash at the gate is no longer reliable for budget planning. The Serengeti is 14,763 square kilometers — roughly the size of Connecticut — divided into distinct zones. Central Seronera has the densest lion population and year-round wildlife including resident leopards in the sausage trees around the Seronera River. The western corridor near Grumeti River has river crossings June to July and fewer visitors than the northern Mara border. The northern Serengeti near Lamai and Kogatende mirrors the Masai Mara experience during July to October and is the top choice for river crossing photography with far smaller crowds than the Kenya side. Southern Serengeti near Ndutu (technically in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area) is the calving ground January to March. Budget accommodation: public campsites are 30 USD per person; the cheapest lodge-style rooms near Seronera run 150 to 250 USD per night all-inclusive.

Ngorongoro Crater

Ngorongoro Crater is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the world's largest intact volcanic caldera — 600 meters deep, 19 kilometers across, with an estimated 25,000 large animals living on the crater floor permanently. Entry fee is 70 USD per person per day; vehicle fee is 40 USD. The crater floor holds one of the densest lion populations in Africa, black rhino (rare but spotted regularly near Lerai Forest), elephant herds, flamingos on Lake Magadi, and enormous wildebeest and zebra populations that don't migrate because the crater is self-contained. Descent and ascent are controlled — vehicles must be off the floor by 18:00. The crater rim sits at 2,300 meters elevation; nights are cold (8 to 12 degrees Celsius) even in July. Pack a warm layer regardless of when you visit. The Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge and Ngorongoro Crater Lodge are on the rim with direct views into the caldera — both run 400 to 800 USD per night. Budget travelers use Karatu town outside the conservation area for guesthouses at 50 to 100 USD per night and pay the gate fee each day.

Amboseli: Kilimanjaro backdrop and elephant herds

Amboseli National Park in Kenya is 240 kilometers southeast of Nairobi, about 4 hours by road or 45 minutes by charter flight from Wilson Airport (80 to 150 USD per person). Entry is 60 USD per person per day. Amboseli is famous for two things: the largest free-roaming elephant herds in Kenya (Amboseli's elephants have been studied continuously since 1972 and are among the most researched in the world), and the view of Mount Kilimanjaro's snow cap rising above the savannah. Kilimanjaro is visible best at dawn before clouds build — early morning game drives reward the effort. The swamp areas of Enkongo Narok and Ol Tukai support hippos, buffalo, and the massive elephant herds. Two nights in Amboseli is the standard; combine it with the Masai Mara for a Kenya-only 6-night itinerary without crossing into Tanzania.

Practical: getting there, malaria, visas, and packing

International airports: Jomo Kenyatta (Nairobi, NBO) for Kenya safaris; Kilimanjaro International (JRO) or Julius Nyerere (DAR) for Tanzania safaris. Kenya and Tanzania both offer eVisa applications online — apply at least 2 weeks ahead. East Africa Tourist Visa covers Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda (100 USD, single entry) but not Tanzania, which requires its own visa (50 USD). Malaria is present in all safari areas; consult a travel medicine clinic for prophylaxis 4 to 6 weeks before departure. Yellow fever vaccination certificate is required if arriving from a yellow fever endemic country. Pack layers for early morning game drives (cold at dawn year-round), neutral colors (khaki, olive, brown — avoid blue which attracts tsetse flies), a wide-brim hat, high SPF sunscreen, and a good pair of binoculars (8x42 is the safari standard). Power adapters: Kenya and Tanzania use British 3-pin (Type G) sockets. Mobile data: Safaricom (Kenya) and Vodacom (Tanzania) offer reliable coverage in tourist areas; buy a local SIM at the airport for data-heavy navigation and lodge communication.